Hiking in Ljubljana’s Southern Hills Home to Bears

Only twenty minutes from the lively center of Ljubljana, there is a sense of contented isolation. Rising abruptly from the flatlands of the Ljubljana Marshes, rolling forested hills reach heights of up to 1,107 meters (Mt. Krim) and stretch as far as the eye can see from east to west, and seemingly endlessly toward the south.

The beautiful beech and spruce forests of the Krim Hills–Menišija naturally continue into the forests of the Notranjska region, Bloke, Velike Lašče, and Ribnica, eventually merging with the vast forests of Kočevje—infamous for large predators such as the brown bear, wolf, and lynx (see more about Kočevje in the Best Mountain Tours of 2024 Outdoor Blog). This ecological corridor allows wildlife to move freely, and locals who live just twenty minutes from Ljubljana will tell you: while hiking in Ljubljana’s tranquil southern Krim Hills, you can track bears, wolves, and lynx—and if you’re (un)lucky, even encounter one.

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“We were returning from a birthday party held in a local hunters’ hut above our house when, while driving down a gravel road, we spotted a mother lynx with four cubs,” one of my closest neighbors told me excitedly (yes, I happen to live there too). “You can see them hiding in the bushes, and one of the cubs is yawning,” Polona said, showing me the video she had recorded.

Last year, I showed the video to a group of Triglav National Park rangers, who enthusiastically confirmed that thanks to the LIFE Lynx project, lynx are indeed slowly repopulating Slovenia’s forests. A particularly dense population now lives in the Krim Hills, especially around Mount Mokrc (1,059 m), located near Mt. Krim.

“I woke up early at 5, walked out of the house, and saw a big brown bear watching me from the field in front,” Polona’s husband once told me. Before more people started living in our tiny outcrop of a village, bears used to come every night and tip over trash cans in search of food. Nowadays, with more dogs outside guarding the houses, they are no longer regular visitors; however, you can still see them—especially in spring, between May and July, when bears mate and young adults are pushed out of dominant males’ territories toward forest edges and nearby villages.

Truth be told, Slovenia has one of the highest brown bear densities in Europe. In certain local hotspots, densities can exceed 40 bears per 100 km², while averages in the thick forests of southern Slovenia range between 13–24 bears per 100 km².

When the first snow dusts the Krim Hills in October and November, bear tracks appear clearly in the white ground, yet actual sightings remain rare. The bears move mostly unseen then, leaving only quiet evidence of their presence.

Late spring tells a different story. As the forests green and food becomes abundant, bear activity increases, and our village group chat fills with reports of sightings. During this season, we hike with bear spray or in groups as a matter of routine.

In the seven years I’ve lived in this small village in the Krim Hills, I’ve seen a bear twice. The only other encounter occurred more than twenty years ago, on the road leading toward the village. For someone like me—an outdoor enthusiast who spends much of the year in the mountains, guiding hikes from May through October—it feels almost improbable that all three bear encounters of my life have taken place just here, within this familiar landscape.

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Nonetheless, Ljubljana’s southern hills are not only about bears, lynx, red deer, and foxes — those are simply the cherry on top of something that is already perfect in its own right. The Krim Hills form a quiet transition zone between the Ljubljana Basin and the vast Dinaric Alps karst plateau, marking a shift from urban lowlands to wilder, forested terrain. Thanks to their elevation, the hills often rise above the persistent fog of the valley and receive snow more frequently, creating a markedly different microclimate just minutes from the capital. Like much of Slovenia, the Krim Hills are shaped by karst geology, with sinkholes, springs, and numerous caves sculpting the landscape out of sight.

Not to mention the views…

Exploring Slovenia’s best hikes from Ljubljana:
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Ideas for hikes in Ljubljana’s southern hills

• The Church of St. Ana, 484 m: 2.5 km, 110 m of ascent, 1 h
  On the western side of the Krim Hills, there is a scenic hill with the remains of a prehistoric settlement and a charming 15th-century church called Sv. Ana, at 484 m. Several trails lead to the church—the longer, 8-km trail starts at Podpeč Lake, while the shorter, 2.5-km trail begins in Preserje, a village at 400 m.
• Five waterfalls in the picturesque Hell Gorge (Slo. Soteska Pekel): 220 m of ascent, 2 – 2.5 h
  Despite its ominous name—Hell Gorge, or soteska Pekel—this narrow canyon is usually calm and inviting. Only after heavy rain does the Borovniščica Stream turn wild, revealing the force of nature behind the gorge’s name. On most days, however, it remains a tranquil walk through pristine forest. A marked trail follows the cascading stream past waterfalls, emerald pools, and close-set rock walls. The route gains just 220 meters of elevation and takes about two hours to complete. Its tallest waterfall—the fifth along the trail—drops 20 meters.

• Mt. Krim, 1.107 m: many differently demanding trails – anything from 350 m of ascent to up to 820 m of ascent.
  The highest peak of the Krim Hills, Mount Krim is also the area’s most popular hiking destination. Often referred to as the “guardian of the Ljubljana Marshes,” it rises above the wide wetlands of Ljubljana Marshes (Slovene: Ljubljansko barje). On clear days, the summit rewards you with sweeping views of the Julian Alps — and even distant Mount Triglav.
  My favorite starting points are Rakitna, Planinski dom na Krimu, or the valley of Iška, depending on the day and what else I have planned. A little insider tip: if you begin in Iška, you can pair the hike with a refreshing wild swim in the beautiful Iški Vintgar.

There are countless gorgeous hikes, family-friendly sledding slopes, and forest trails perfect for mountain biking in the Krim Hills, conveniently located just a stone’s throw from Ljubljana. Winter may also be the safest season in terms of encountering wild animals. However, keep in mind that you are entering an area where the brown bear thrives, and even locals hike there with great respect. With proper awareness and responsible behavior, you can safely enjoy one of Slovenia’s most pristine natural areas.

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